From December to April, I had the chance to live in Hokkaido, the northernmost region of Japan. Known for its fluffy snow, stunning mountains, and cozy onsens, it was the perfect place to spend a winter. My days were mostly filled with snowboarding, hunting fresh powder, eating more ramen than I care to admit, and soaking in onsens. Here’s a glimpse of what I got up to with some tips and recommendations on what to do and what not to do. Whether you are thinking of visiting Japan for a ski trip or wanting to head out for a season, I’ve got you.

Hokkaido is famous for its incredible powder snow, and for good reason. The snow here is light, dry, and perfect for carving - it’s honestly the most fun I’ve had snowboarding, and I have a feeling it’ll spoil Europe’s snow for me forever. But of course, Japan and Europe are totally different, each with its own unique qualities. Europe has a lot more terrain and is known for its après-ski scene - outdoor bars and restaurants where you can drink and dance in the snow. In contrast, Japan’s culture doesn’t really encourage that, so you won’t find much happening on the mountain itself.

That said, Hirafu, the lively resort town, has plenty of bars and restaurants for nightlife. It wasn’t really my scene, but it was fun at the start of the season. For a more relaxed vibe, head over to Cafe Commons in Annupuri for a cozy igloo party with some funky house music. This is a great little spot.

In comparison to Europe, the mountains here are smaller and not as high in altitude. To reach the peak, you can take the ‘pizza chair’ lift, which is hands down the dodgiest ski lift I’ve ever been on. It’s called the ‘pizza box’ because the seat is about the size of a pizza box, and you just hang onto a pole with no other barriers while it takes you up. Honestly, it’s not as scary as it sounds, but I do get a little nervous each time, mainly because I don’t want to make a fool of myself and fall off in front of the whole line of people!

The hike to the summit isn’t too bad - it’s challenging but only takes around 20 minutes, which feels like a breeze when you think about Mount Yotei, which is a 5–8 hour trek. I kept telling myself, "this is nothing" to push through. And trust me, it’s absolutely worth it when you're flying down the mountain on that untouched, fluffy powder.

Having a car in the area is pretty essential, and I’d highly recommend renting one for your trip or even for the season. Niseko has become increasingly popular thanks to TikTok and Instagram, and it’s been trending more than in previous years. We’ve definitely noticed a spike in tourism, but the area isn’t really built to handle this many visitors. This leads to long delays, crowded queues, packed buses, and busy roads. Luckily, we had work vans to get around, which saved us from being stuck outside in the cold.

Having a car also gives you the freedom to explore other nearby resorts, like Rusutsu, which is just 40 minutes from Hirafu. The terrain there is different, with plenty more fun tree runs and valleys to explore. Personally, I think Rusutsu might even be better than Hirafu/Hanazono, though the town isn’t as lively, and they don’t get quite as much snow, but pretty on par.

A huge part of my season was visiting an onsen after a day riding or if we are having a day off, it is the best place to warm up and relax your muscles. A Japanese onsen is much more than just a hot spring bath - it’s a deeply cultural experience that combines relaxation, tradition, and a connection to nature. In Japan, onsen are natural hot springs that have been used for centuries for their therapeutic properties. You enter into the Onsen completely nude, you wash yourself well before entering the baths. I’d go from the outside bath, to cold plunge, to sauna and repeat.

Ikoino Yuyado Iroha Hotel, Onsen - Annupuri

There was nothing better than heading here after a long day snowboarding. You aren’t meant to take any pictures at all, so very sneaky of me to get a picture but it was pre-season, it was empty so please do not cancel me. During peak season, this Onsen is £7.50 but they can be as cheap as £3.15 for as long as you like. You also have free toiletries, moisturiser and ear buds. It’s the small things. The perfect end to a perfect day, is heading for Ramen. You are completely satisfied and always sleep very well. Japan culture just hits different…

In January, we hit a dry spell with little snow, so we decided to venture out to Lake Toya on a beautiful, clear day. The sun was shining, and it honestly felt more like spring than January, which was a bit concerning. We circled the lake and, of course, took a dip in the icy waters afterward—definitely a refreshing experience!

Lake Toya is about a 50-minute drive from Hirafu, making it a perfect day trip away from the slopes to explore more of Hokkaido.

Hokkaido, Japan

Lanzarote, Islas Canarias